Painted the engine this week. It's been a long time coming...economy, laziness, etc etc...ran out of excuses and finally got it done.
 
1. Sealer on left JP202 https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCatalog/ViewProduct.aspx?ProductID=3a83823d -5ffd-4728-ad92-c2d667f354f8 (for pitting or minor defects) flash time 15 minutes, sandable in 1-2 hours. This stuff is like liquid bondo, very useful for tiny touch ups on smooth steel 'tin' like surfaces such as valve covers etc.  
 
PPG JH301 Hardener and JR505 Reducer are used with the sealer to manipulate dry times and weather conditions
 
2. Epoxy primer in center JP375 https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCatalog/ViewProduct.aspx?ProductID=26f0b8be -236e-4214-827b-58ef2dd2503b (for primer coat) Allow 15 minute induction (after initial mixing) before spraying. Flash time/recoat time 15 minutes. Must recoat (with second primer coat) before 72 hours or mechanically rescuff all surfaces.
 
PPG JH3770 hardener is second part of catalyzed mixture  
 
3. Finish paint on right UTECH 3.8 HSP (Dupont code 5067U) http://www.akzonobelcarrefinishes.net/default.asp?sid=65395&pid=452 (high solids polyurethane finish) Allow 15 minutes to flash, 15 hours to dry, max recoat time 7 days
 
UTECH 3.8 Activator is part of mixed solution.  
 
Note: You can add a flattener to knock down the sheen. I didn't since this is an 'overestored' effort and also wanted to keep the hardness/durability. It'll reduce in shine as time goes on.    
 
 
 
Cost for all paint approx $200. Cost of guns (3) and dessicant system etc $1000. You don't need to spend this much on equipment -I just wanted to get some good devilbiss HVLP equipment. You can get the equipment you need to paint (assuming you have a CFM compatible compressor) for well under $500 bucks. So if you have a car to restore, and you're going to get at least a half dozen parts painted at some point in the process (air cleaner, door trim, wheels, etc etc) full investment for the guns and paint is much less than you'd pay to have a pro do the work. And in the end you'll have the freedom to paint what you want on your own terms.    
 
I took some vids:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=is7OvlW1D_w
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gaVtzWEn0yw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-_v4wY-j6g
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N3gw8RZWRpk
Sorry for the narration quality...getting over a cold and not at all an 'expert' at this.  
AGAIN...This is not gospel advice and not intended to be 'expert information'  
USE ALL APPROPRIATE SAFETY EQUIPMENT AS THIS PAINT WILL KILL YOU IF YOU ARE NOT CAREFUL.  
 
 
 
Thanks to Mike Bonsanti, Dave Verna and Mike Waldbrunn for all their advice and help.  

3.

5.

7.

WOW, nice job. I have had trouble with valve cover paint peeling. I will definitely keep your painting method in mind.

Coop,
 
Looks great and excellent Archieve resto material! We need more of the individual item resto documented for us in the middle of it.
 
Ed

Nice job Coop. Can't wait to see it with some components bolted on.
I've painted engines with spray cans for many years, but the results of a spray gun are really worth the extra effort.

Thanks guys. Never had a 4 hour erection (as warned about on TV), but this part of the process has got to be pretty close.
 
Bolting on some parts (carbs, distributor, etc) restored by Bill Overcash years ago.  
 
Reused original motor mounts with 3 dimple nuts and washers but NOT the old crusty bolts. reused one 'EB' fuel seperator hose, got another 'EB' hose from Grinwald/Almost NOS, correct Delco solenoid, replated 054 choke thermosat, Almost NOS coil, original exhaust manifolds which are unfinished/uncoated/unpainted, also left the paint off the front loom rubber as per survivor, used an 11 mm open ended wrench to tap mill finish oil tube stop down into block (very snug), black handle dipstick, center carb sticker on left...yada yada  
 
496 stroker, hemi oil pan, 10.5 compression, fully ported 452s /1.88 valves with nice mid/high flow, Comp 250+ cam...nothing to scream about but should be good on the street and look decent.